Great taxidermy starts in the field, not in the shop. The single biggest factor in how a finished mount looks is how the bird was handled in the minutes and hours after the shot — long before it ever reaches our table. The good news: preserving a bird for taxidermy is simple, it costs nothing, and anyone can do it right with a few basic habits. This guide walks you through exactly how to field-care and freeze waterfowl and upland birds for the best possible mount, whether you hunt the marshes of the Great Salt Lake, the pheasant fields of Cache Valley, or the chukar rock of the Stansburys.
The 4 Golden Rules of Field Care
Never Gut It
Never field-dress or breast out a bird you want mounted. We need the whole bird — skin, feathers, wings and tail — completely intact. Cutting it open is the fastest way to ruin a potential mount.
Keep It Cool & Dry
Heat and moisture are the enemy. Get the bird out of a warm truck or hot blind bag, keep it out of direct sun, and away from wet dog mouths and blood-soaked gear.
Protect Every Feather
Do not pile gear or other birds on top of it, and do not let a dog re-retrieve or chew it. Broken, bent or missing feathers are hard to fix and can compromise the whole mount.
Freeze It Whole
If you cannot get the bird to a taxidermist within a day or two, freeze it. Frozen birds keep beautifully for months and give us excellent material to work with.
Field Care, Step by Step
- Stop the bleeding and wipe up. As soon as you pick up your bird, gently wipe away excess blood with a paper towel or snow, and tuck a small piece of paper towel or cotton into the mouth and vent so fluids do not leak onto the feathers.
- Smooth the feathers. Preen everything back into its natural position — wings folded, tail closed, body feathers laying flat and in the right direction.
- Slip it into a nylon. Slide the bird head-first into a nylon stocking, knee-high, or a purpose-made game-bird sock. This holds every feather flat against the body and is the number-one trick that separates a clean mount from a rough one.
- Bag it and squeeze out the air. Slide the wrapped bird into a plastic bag — a gallon zip-top for most birds, a kitchen trash bag for geese and turkeys — and press out as much air as you can before sealing to prevent freezer burn.
- Cool it, then freeze it. Keep the bird cool in the field and get it into a freezer as soon as you are home. Lay it flat with the feathers in their natural position so it freezes in a good shape.
Species-Specific Tips
Ducks & Geese
Waterfowl feathers are oily and water-repellent, but blood and mud dry hard on them. Wipe blood off quickly before it sets, and avoid getting the bird soaking wet. Cool divers and late-season birds fast — never wrap a warm, wet duck airtight, which is how feathers slip.
Pheasant, Chukar & Grouse
Upland birds bruise and lose feathers easily. Carry them in a game bag rather than crammed in a vest pocket, keep them out of the sun on warm early-season days, and cool them quickly. A rooster's long tail feathers are fragile — protect them.
Wild Turkey
Turkeys are big and hold body heat, so they need to cool fast to avoid spoilage and slipping around the beard and cape. Keep the fan and beard clean and dry, and freeze the bird in a large bag with the feathers smoothed and the fan supported flat.
How to Freeze a Bird for Taxidermy
Freezing is the safest way to hold a bird until it reaches the shop, and done right it preserves a bird perfectly for months. Nylon-wrap the bird, seal it in a bag with the air pressed out, label it with the date and species, and lay it flat in the freezer with the feathers in their natural position. If you can, avoid long-term storage in a frost-free freezer — the freeze-thaw cycle can slowly dry a bird out. Never re-freeze a bird that has fully thawed, and when in doubt, get it to us sooner rather than later.
What NOT to Do
A few habits ruin more potential mounts than anything else. Do not gut, breast, or skin the bird. Do not hang it by the neck or let it swing and bang against gear. Do not cram it into a hot vest pocket for the rest of the day. Do not let your dog chew or re-retrieve a trophy bird. Do not wrap a warm, wet bird in an airtight bag and leave it — cool it first. And do not wait a week hoping it will be fine in the fridge; if it will not reach a taxidermist within a day or two, freeze it.
Getting Your Bird to Outlaw Taxidermy
Once your bird is properly cooled or frozen, get in touch and we will arrange the easiest drop-off or meet-up for you. Bring it frozen if you have had it a while, and tell us anything you remember about the hunt and the pose you are picturing. Outlaw Taxidermy specializes only in birds — waterfowl, upland game and turkey — so from the moment your trophy reaches our table, it is in the hands of people who do this every day. We proudly serve hunters across Utah, Idaho, Wyoming and Nevada. Not sure if your bird is a wall-hanger? Score it on the Outlaw Bounty Board and find out.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I gut my bird before bringing it in?
No. Never gut, breast out, or field-dress a bird you want mounted. We need the whole bird completely intact — skin, feathers, wings and tail. Cutting it open is the quickest way to ruin a mount.
What is the best way to store a bird for taxidermy?
Slide it head-first into a nylon stocking to protect the feathers, seal it in a plastic bag with the air pressed out, and freeze it flat with the feathers in their natural position. Frozen birds keep well for months.
How long can a bird stay in the freezer before mounting?
Properly wrapped and sealed, a bird can stay frozen for several months and still make an excellent mount. Press out the air to prevent freezer burn, and avoid letting it thaw and re-freeze.
Can I still mount a bird if my dog roughed it up?
Sometimes. Minor feather damage can often be repaired or hidden, and missing feathers can occasionally be replaced. Bring it in and we will tell you honestly what is possible — the more intact the bird, the better the result.
How soon do I need to get my bird to you?
If you can, within a day or two while it is cool. If not, freeze it right away using the nylon-and-bag method and it will keep for months until you can get it to us.
Anything special for a banded duck or a trophy tom?
Just protect it well and keep the details. Leave bands on the bird and bring the info; for turkeys, keep the beard and fan clean and dry. We can display bands and mount fans to show off exactly what makes the bird special.